Light painting Assignment

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Pixels Lab

ISO 400 – well exposed

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ISO 400 – over-exposed (a little blurry but the emotion was good so I chose this one anyways)

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ISO 400 – underexposed

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In my opinion, either the well-exposed of the over exposed ones are the best. I dont like the look of the underexposed one, all the shadows show more, for example under the eyes which is rarely flattering. So the over exposed is my favorite, it makes things seem more fresh and uplifting.

ISO 1600 – well exposed1876 - 20170321

screenshot of ^ – ISO 1600 well exposed

Screen Shot 2017-03-22 at 9.21.00 AM

ISO 1600 – under exposed

Screen Shot 2017-03-22 at 9.21.22 AM

The two seem pretty similar to me, except for the exposure of course, maybe a little more grain in the second one. Both of them have noise but the second has more, I can’t say I’ve noticed anything else…

Raw Photo

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Raw Screenshot

Screen Shot 2017-03-22 at 9.11.08 AM

Jpeg Screenshot

Screen Shot 2017-03-22 at 9.10.44 AM

There is definitely more detail (sharpness) in the screenshot of the raw photo. The jpeg looks much softer. The raw file is more pixelated than the jpeg.

Histogram Lab


Screen Shot 2017-03-08 at 9.31.04 AM


Most of the pixels in this photo can be found on the right side of the histogram. All details would be present if I were to print because there is no clipping, clipping indicates no details in that area (for highkey it would be in the bright white areas).

_MG_1349Screen Shot 2017-03-08 at 9.31.34 AM


Most of the pixels are on the left side of the histogram, the histogram indicates that there is a little clipping (white triangle left top corner) but there isn’t lots, so we would only loose a small amount of details if I were to print this photo, most likely in the top right corner where the black is at its darkest.

_MG_1344Screen Shot 2017-03-08 at 9.31.22 AM


The pixels in this photo are pretty scattered across the histogram, mostly in the middle though. No details would be lost if this were a print because there is very little clipping, it is most likely the very dark area on the far right that is causing it. This is the most dynamic range histogram.

I think my camera did a decent job at exposing the high and low key photos. The mug was well exposed in the images.



First 3 screenshots: shot with long exposure noise reduction off, the last image shot at 3200 is definitely one of the worst ones, the noise is very obvious and not very appealing to me. This setting didn’t do much for the noise reduction because it was turned off


Second 3 screenshots: these were shot with the same long exposure noise reduction but the setting was turned on this time. Honestly I can’t say I notice much of a difference from when it was turned off. The noise is still very obvious and present.


Third 3 screenshots: these three were shot with the High ISO speed NR, on the low setting. Once again for the 3200 ISO one, the noise is very obvious and were loosing detail in the photo. I wouldn’t use this setting, there is very little noise reduction.


Fourth 3 screenshots: these were shot with High ISO speed NR on the standard setting this time. I believe the noise in the 3200 isn’t as bad as in the previous (low) setting, it is still there though. I think this setting is better than the last, but still not great.


Fifth 3 screenshots: for the last three I was shooting with the same High ISO speed NR setting but on high this time. In conclusion, I think my camera just isn’t great in low light and noise is inevitable. Although I do think that this one isn’t as bad as the last.

If ever I did need to shoot in low light, I would choose the last setting so High ISO speed NR on high.

White Balance Lab


Automatic White Balance


Shade White Balance


Custom White Balance (I know this one is a little shaky, the lady was telling me I couldn’t stand near the door so I was rushed, oops..)


Automatic White Balance – warm and green tones, I don’t like this look, especially on a person because it makes them look a little green and sick.


White Fluorescent White Balance – a little colder, but less green-ish, this one was definitely the best out of the 3


Shade White Balance – much warmer and more orange than anything, this doesn’t look natural at all, I don’t like the look of the orange.


White Fluorescent White Balance – I chose to shoot with this setting to get the purple tones out, I think it creates a nice look on wintery pictures!

Assignment 1 – creative use of shutter speed & aperture


Cityscape: 1/30 – f/20 – iso 100 – 18mm – shot with18-55mm f/5.6

I would’ve shot this with the same settings even if it weren’t for this assignment, however had this been due during spring/summer, I would’ve opted for the landscape opposed to the cityscape.


Night photography: 10seconds – f/9 – iso 100 – 21mm – shot with 18-55mm f/5.6

For a shot like this one, I would’ve kept the same settings as well. I enjoy the look of the trailing lights, it adds a little abstract to the harsh structure of the roads.


Portrait: 1/100 – f/1.8 – iso 200 – 50mm – shot with 50mm f/.18

I believe shallow DoF is always a winner for portraits. S0 once again I would’ve kept the same settings for something like this.


Sport: 1/1600 – f/1.8 – iso 100 – 50mm – shot with 50mm f/1.8

These were good settings to capture movement without any blur. I believe this shot was a success because we can clearly see that she is in the air and all of her body is in focus and sharp.


Panning: 1/50 – f/14 – iso 100 – 50mm – shot with 50mm f/1.8

Personally, I wouldn’t have shot a panning if it were a choice. I believe they’re more difficult to capture and the look of them isn’t so appealing to me.  But for this assignment, the settings I used did the job and I am content with the image I got from it.

Different lenses lab


1/100 – f/1.8 – iso 100 – 50mm -> shot with 50mm f/1.8


1/30 – f/3.5 – iso 100 – 18 mm -> shot with 18-55mm (kit lens)
The distortion in this one is noticeable, the hand creme looks deformed and the object look much farther apart than when shot with the 50mm.


1/60- f/4 – iso 400- 200mm -> shot with 70-200mm f/4

This one is very similar to the first image shot with the 50mm, the bottle is a little more blurry in this one.


1/30 – f/4 – iso 400 – 200mm -> shot with 70-200mm f/4

The background is completely blown out of focus when shooting at 200mm.


1/60 – f/4 – iso 400 – 70mm -> shot with 70-200mm f/4

Even though these two last pictures were shot with the same lens the image is completely different. The crop on this one is not nearly as tight and the background is much more in focus in this one. I prefer the look of the first one where the background is out of focus.


1/60 – f/4 – iso 400 – 121mm -> shot with 70-200mm f/4

Most of the plant is in focus in this one, only going slightly out of focus on the farther ones and the wall. This is a useful technique to make the subject stand out from the background. This image wouldn’t have been the same had it been shot at 70mm.


1/60 – f/4 – iso 400 – 155mm -> shot with 70-200mm f/4

Just going in a little tighter makes a difference, in this one strictly the front of the pot and the flowers nearest to the camera on in focus. The 70-200mm is definitely one of the sharpest lenses I have, the precise focus makes the image much better.


1/1000 – f/2 – iso 100 – 50mm -> shot with 50mm f/1.8


1/100 – f/22 – iso 800 – 50mm -> shot with 50mm f/1.8


1/1250 – f/1.8 – iso 100 – 50mm -> shot with 50mm f/1.8


1/500 – f/4 – iso 100 – 70mm -> shot with 70-200mm f/4


1/25- f/22 – iso 200 – 70mm -> shot with 70-200mm f/4


1/400 – f/4 – iso 100 – 200mm -> shot with 70-200mm f/4


1/80 – f/11 – iso 200 – 200mm -> shot with 70-200mm f/4


1/25 – f/22 – iso 200 – 200mm ->shot with 70-200mm f/4

Generally for these ones I noticed that when shooting with a shallow depth of field, the edges of the image were softer, and when shooting with a deeper DoF everything is harsher. Apart from that, I couldn’t tell much of a difference. I think that if I had shot with my 18-55 kit lens there would’ve been lots of distortion but the lenses I did use aren’t wide at all.

DoF Lab


Architecture – Deep DoF : 1/30 – f/20 – iso 6400


Still life 1 – Shallow DoF : 1/60 – f/.8 – Iso 200

I believe this is the most effective of the still life images. The blurry background give the image a sort of dreamy feel, it gives it a feeling of depth as well as helping the subject stand out from the background effectively. The settings also work out well to avoid grain,  camera shake and have a decent exposure.


Still Life 2 – Medium DoF : 1/50 – f/8 – iso 3200

This image is still effective but not as much as the first one. The background is still slightly our of focus but not enough to really help the subject stand out. The grain in this photo is more present because by lowering the aperture I had to boost up the iso to 3200, I don’t like this look as much.


Still Life 3 – Deep DoF : 1/25 – f/18 – iso 6400

This is my least favourite of the 3. The grain in this one is obvious because of the high iso that I had no choice to use because I was already shooting at 1/25 and had to shoot at f/18 to obtain the sharp background. This doesn’t give much of a vibe or feeling to the image, the blurred background is much more effective in this case.


Portrait – Shallow DoF: 1/50 – F/1.8 – iso 200

The blurred background helps to make the subject stand out from the busy background. This technique is very effective in portraits, especially when there are lights in the background that get blown out of focus. It gives a dreamy and softer vibe, the image is less harsh to look at.


Portrait – Deep DoF: 1/25 – f/16 – iso 6400

Although this is the same model in the same setting, just the change from shallow to deep DoF changes the image completely. This one is much more harsh and not nearly as appealing as the first one. One of the causes of that is the grain in the image. I had no choice but to bump up the iso to 6400 because of the deep DoF. I was already shooting at 1/25 which is already slow to be shooting a human being.

Shutter Speed Lab


F.22 – ISO 100 – 5second shutter speed


F1.8 – ISO 1600 – 1/500 shutter speed

For this one I had to bring up the ISO to be able to increase my shutter speed to be able to capture the ball of paper with no movement so it could look like its simply floating in the air.


F1.8 – ISO 400 – 1/40 shutter speed

For this one I brought my shutter speed down to 1/40th to capture the movement of the ball of paper. Even though it is the same concept as the motion freeze one, they have a very different feel. I had to change locations because the ball of paper wasn’t popping enough against the entrance doors.


F1.8 – ISO 100 – 1/25 shutter speed

I used the railing to steady my forearms and was very careful to not move as I slowly engaged the shutter. Here is the (quite grainy) zoomed in screenshot of the previous image.